Hairstyle File: The History of Revolutionary Hair

The idea that Black hair, in its natural state, is considered “revolutionary” is a very odd one, indeed. But within the context of U.S. history, it makes perfect sense. When the first generation of African slaves landed in America, they’d been accustomed to carefully treating their hair with herbs, creating elaborate conrowed styles and grooming their kinks with carved wooden combs (thought to be weapons, they were discarded on the slave ships). On American soil, unable to care for their hair the same way, women resorted to wearing rags to cover head sores and bald spots. Their kinks became a source of shame. And as young slave women began giving birth to half-white babies, their longer-haired offspring were considered better, prettier, more civilized. The idea that “white is right” was so embedded in the country’s DNA that, by the time the Black is Beautiful movement hit in the 60s—and women proudly rocked afros and braids—the simple act of embracing the hair that grows out of our heads was considered a revolutionary, counter-culture statement.

This idea is nothing new! Back in 1867, poet Frances Harper was one of the first Black activists to make a statement with her hairstyle. Born free in Baltimore, Harper was a poet, author (her novel, “Iola Leary” was one of the first written by an African American woman), and one of the leading Black political activist of her time. While touring on the lecture circuit with the American Anti-Slavery Society, Harper wore her hair in cornrows instead of mimicking white styles—a dramatic statement from a woman of her social standing.